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“Many of this year’s winners represent the new guard of hospitality talent,” says Fraser. “There are young couples trying something totally fresh for regional Australia at Chauncy and Bar Merenda in Daylesford, our Bar of the Year. They showcase relaxed approaches to service and wine that are still of an exceptional standard.”

REGIONAL RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

The best beyond metro limits, a celebration of its surroundings with a strong connection to the local community.

Sitting in the sun-drenched dining room at Chauncy, you could almost be in the French countryside. Instead, you’re in Heathcote, dining on Louis Naepels’ elegant cooking.

Naepels is French, and much of the menu here is firmly rooted in the traditions that saw Michelin start its famous guide – so many of the best restaurants in France were tucked into pretty rooms in small towns.

But Chauncy is very much of its place, too, seen in the sourcing of local ingredients, in the heritage sandstone building in which it resides, and in its style of service, which is all understated Australian warmth. Tess Murray presides over the dining room like a goodwill sprite, beaming positive energy and doling out smart recommendations for fantastic European wines.

In an area that is far less saturated with dining options than other parts of the state, Chauncy wins our hearts for so many reasons. Eating here is everything you want from a day in the country.

written by Besha Rodell

A full list of hats can be found here…

With outrageously good cheese puffs and service that stops you in your tracks, this French-leaning spot in wine country has become one of the finest recent additions to Victoria’s destination-dining landscape.

By Tomas Telegramma

Late winter sunlight streams in through a large-paned window and falls on my main course: medallions of local venison, cooked perfectly rare and topped with preserved blueberries, sitting on a silky cauliflower purée, surrounded by a sticky reduction. Alongside is a bowl of the richest silverbeet gratin I’ve ever tasted. It’s hard to imagine a better match with a glass of bold purple Jasper Hill shiraz.

Max Allen

Victoria’s most affordable two-hat restaurant is worth a holiday on its owner.

By Ben Ground Water

This list of the best restaurants in Australia is all you will need to ensure you enjoy countless dining experiences. Our team of reviewers spend months crisscrossing the country, knife and fork in hand, kicking the tyres of old favourites, putting new players through their paces and generally taking stock of the nation's dining scene to compile this comprehensive run-down for your eating pleasure.

Reviews are written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.

Here are the best restaurants in Australia right now

The Age Good Food Guide Awards 2023: Victoria's best restaurants and cooking talent celebrated.

A young hospitality couple who burn for the craft, who fell hard for the finessed farm-forward excellence of provincial French restaurants while working overseas, and who have successfully transplanted that beautiful, wafty vision onto the perfect backdrop for the job.

No. 7 Chauncy, Heathcote

At Chauncy, it’s personal. Husband and wife Louis Naepels and Tess Murray meld their respective talents and backstories (he ex-Grossi Florentino, she formerly of Supernormal) to create a beautiful piece of France in central Victoria using the freshest local produce they grow or can get their hands on.

A bijou French-leaning bistro in central Victoria is well worth the trip, writes Michael Harden.

Indulge all your French foodie fantasies a bit closer to home at Heathcote’s swoon-worthy new country restaurant, Chauncy.

Hospitality couple Tess Murray and Louis Naepels are breathing new life into a heritage-listed sandstone building on Heathcote's main street with their first restaurant, Chauncy. The intimate diner has just 16 seats and combines French, Italian and Basque influences with best-in-class local ingredients.

Heathcote's Chauncy restaurant earns prestigious two hats

Louis will run the kitchen thanks to years of expertise grounded in French technique while Tess takes care of the wine and front of house. The pair first met at Melbourne institution Grossi Florentino where Louis was head chef and Tess was a sommelier.

From there, they’ve worked in some of the best restaurants in Australia and France. And for a time, they ran a little bistro in the Basque country which made a big impact on them personally.