Basque Country
by Antonina Heymanson for Chauncy
We’ve been working away on some recommendations for the Basque Country. If you’ve ever had the pleasure of sharing this topic of conversation with us, you will know how ardently in love with this beautiful part of the world we are.
Ciboure/Ziburu
This is a very special place for Tess and Louis. It’s the first place that felt like home, where they found their first full-time jobs, and where some of the ideas for Chauncy began.
Ciboure is a tiny fisherman’s village on the other side of the bridge from Saint-Jean-de-Luz that has retained its attachment to maritime environments and local traditions. A quaint town of steep, narrow streets, historic squares and rich architectural heritage, here you can find a handful of small and special restaurants so close to the fishing port that you can watch seafood being pulled from the sea and destined – hopefully – for your plate.
The village has a rugged side, a steady day-by-day rhythm that means you can come in early for coffee and be rubbing shoulders with fishermen enjoying a glass of wine at 8 am as they finish their day. There are all these little jewels and wonderful people to be discovered, and while you may never be able to get to everything, these are a couple of our dearest recommendations.
Please let us know if you visit, and say ‘hi’ from us.
Yanase Megumi is a wildly talented young chef running her first restaurant, La Table de Megumi, in Ciboure. Originally from Tokyo, she draws on her Japanese heritage and the Basque ingredients and traditions at her doorstep to create fresh, beautiful dishes of incredible value. With such diverse, high-quality produce at her fingertips, she creates dishes that will take you to another world of experience.
15 Quai Maurice Ravel, 64500 Ciboure, France +33 5 47 02 29 29
Wednesday through Saturday 12:30–2 pm; 7:30–9:30 pm, Sunday 12:30–2 pm
@latabledemegumi
If you want to get amongst it in Ciboure, this is where you go.
This is the first place Louis worked when he and Tess first moved to the Basque Country. Maitenia’s culture of sourcing from local growers and artisans is the foundation of the approach that we’ve taken here at Chauncy.
Now in its third ownership, Maitenia maintains a similar ethos working directly with like-minded producers for delicious charcuterie, pintxos and plates with seasonal, fresh produce front of mind.
The nearby bars are an excellent next stop for a cheap vermouth on the rocks, or high-acid local cider – especially during the summer when the terrace is filled with tables and chairs – though, if you do decide to enjoy your drink al fresco, keep an eye out for rogue pelota balls, as the nearby courts are often used by locals and the matches get lively!
8 Pl. du Fronton, 64500 Ciboure, France +33 5 24 33 45 68
Tuesday through Saturday 8 am–late, Sunday 7 am–4 pm
@maitenia
Places we are yet to visit but top of our list for our next trip:
Petit Grill Basque / Chez Maya - Wednesday to Saturday for dinner and Friday and Saturday lunch. 4 Rue Saint Jacques, Saint-Jean-de-Luz
Denen Kanttua - Bistrot and Natural Wines. Open Tuesday to Friday for lunch and dinner.
13 Avenue Jaureguiberry, Saint-Jean-de-Luz
Elizaberriko Etxeberria- Restaurant & Bar. Open Wednesday to Saturday for evenings. Quartier Elizaberri, 85 Chemin d’Errelua, Hasparren.
Urrugne/Urruña
This is the small, hilltop town that Tess and Louis used to call home.
Just a 5–10 minute drive west of Saint-Jean-de-Luz, the borders stretch from the Basque Corniche cliffs to the first mountains of the Pyrenées. A town of traditional architecture, beautiful landscapes and living traditions, Urrugne is filled with locals with much to teach about the Basque art of living. Deep roots of history run through the area and people often stop by on one of several Camino trails, the symbolic scallop shells marking their pilgrimmage.
But whether you’re after some outdoor activities, a little history, or a paxcharan on a sunny afternoon to the soundtrack of tolling church bells, this little town is well worth a stop.
Antoine Chépy and his partner Bianca run Arotzenia Elkartea, a non-profit restaurant dedicated to working with local produce.
For many years, Chépy has been vocal about food security, sustainability and the importance of developing relationships with communities to produce thoughtful food from farm to fork. Here, his beliefs take physical form in soulful dishes, unapologetically grounded in eating well. Everything on the seasonal menu is fairly priced, including an excellent range of independent and organic wines, and with the exception of coffee, spices, and a little Burgundy, everything is ultra-local, sourced from within a 200-kilometre radius.
When you’re away from home, Bianca’s service and Antoine’s dishes will leave you energised and nourished, ready to begin the adventure again.
47 Rue Jean Fourcade, 64122 Urrugne, France +33 7 57 77 17 94
Thursday through Monday 12 pm–3 pm Kitchen open 12.30 pm–3 pm
@auberge_arotzenia
Saint-Jean-de-Luz/ Donibane Lohizune
This is a quaint, historic seaside town that Tess and Louis one day hope to return to.
Located in a natural harbour in the windswept south-east corner of the Bay of Biscay, the Atlantic Ocean’s ferocity is tempered by a seawall that brings calm waters year-round. Once home to privateers in the 17th century, the city is now a tourist and wellness destination that has retained the integrity of its identity. With many soulful venues, generational artisans and craftspeople, Saint-Jean-de-Luz has a restful calm even among the busy resorts and active fishing port.
Le Marché de Saint-Jean-de-Luz with stops at
La Buvette des Halles & Benat Fromager Affineur
This is the morning market; come here on Tuesdays and Fridays for a splendid array of what’s best in season. Ride the current of energy past a number of stalls with local produce, cheeses and fresh seafood, and then – at a location marked by shelves of colourful kettles – stop at La Buvette de la Halles, a tiny café with a sprawling terrace in the high season, run by Jean within the market halls.
This is a place to stop for the experience alone. Nothing makes you feel more in the throes of Basque life than enjoying freshly shucked oysters while listening to fishermen telling tales of the sea. And get the tiny glass of Jurançon with the oysters, you won’t regret it – you’re on holiday after all.
Be sure to stop off at the wonderful Benat Fromager Affineur just opposite, and take a moment to decide if you would prefer a cream, or cherry Basque cake for your travels.
Les Halles Boulevard Victor Hugo 64500 Saint-Jean-de-Luz
Bocata inspires us in every way. This is a small café/bistrot with a micro kitchen that pumps out beautifully considered plates and the best sandwiches you’ll ever have.
Without being fussy, Elsa’s food is refined and balanced; small plates and sandwiches alike always bursting with goodness and beautiful execution. Front of house, Marieke is charming, always in sync with the rhythms of the kitchen and needs of diners – plus, she has the most wonderful selection of natural wines!
Located just around the corner from Les Halles, facing the Saint-Jean-de-Luz-Ciboure train station, this is a great spot to stop, grab a sandwich and a cheeky glass of wine after travel, a swim, or a stroll along the promenade. You’ll come away refreshed in more ways than one.
9 Avenue de Verdun, 64500 Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France +33 5 59 22 28 30
Monday through Friday 8:30 am–3 pm Saturday 9 am–2 pm
@bocata_donibane
This is a tiny, two-storey restaurant run by Australian chef who at every service also plays host, waiter and sommelier.
Luke Dolphin sources incredible local produce and each service works to create unexpected and epic flavours. This is an extraordinary experience well worth the effort – if you can get a spot for lunch – as there’s usually no more than eight diners at one time, and opening hours depend on the chef’s availability.
If you land a spot, say ‘yes’ to anything and everything – the matched wines are wildly delicious. Put simply, it’s just a wonderful thing to be Luke’s guest.
3 Rue du 17 Pluviôse, 64500 Saint-Jean-de-Luz +33 6 67 41 78 07
Monday through Friday 12–3 pm
@restaurant_pluviose
San Sebastián/Donostia
San Sebastián doesn’t need much introduction except to say that it’s easily Tessa’s favourite place on earth – the perfect mix of surf, nightlife and accessible food. The city has everything from cheap pintxos and dry cider to 3 Michelin star restaurants, but it’s the local bars that overlook the plazas that are the highlight; these are hubs of community where three or more generations may converge at one time to share food, and drink late into the evening.
In San Sebastián you can sink into the city and choose your own adventure. There’s a lot of love and joy here, and learning a few words of Basque will bring it all bubbling to the surface. It’s as easy as that.
Gerald’s Bar in San Sebastián – need we say more? Perhaps even less for those who are familiar with its counterpart in North Carlton. But if you do make your way to Donostia for a little visit – it’s easily one of the best places to dine. If you go nowhere else in San Sebastián, make sure you go to Gerald’s.
The food is better than it’s ever been, the drinks list is vibrant, and with Bella Bowring at the helm, you can’t go wrong. Bella is a hospo extraordinaire who has been working with Gerald Diffey for many years, and her team of staff have their fingers on the pulse of the city. They know every venue and the people that make their hearts beat. But before you venture into a world of recommendations – stop. And allow yourself to be taken care of.
Iparragirre K., 13, 20001 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain +34 943 08 30 01
Tuesday through Sunday 1–5 pm; 7:30 pm–1 am
geraldsbar.eu | @geraldsbarss
This place feels like a real local’s secret. Tucked away in the laid-back neighbourhood of Gros, Bar Manojo is an exceptional example of the new wave of hospitality coming through San Sebastián, and they’re serving seasonal pintxos year-round.
The food is fresh and modern. Staff are sensitive to the subtlest changes within the seasons, frequently creating a variety of new dishes that can be enjoyed as pintxos, ración, or media ración – depending on your hunger levels. You might find yourself sat on a tiny bench, shoulder to shoulder with the locals, but before you know it, you’ll be making your way through everything on the menu – we speak from experience. With a substantial natural wine list, you could linger here for apéro, or use it as a platform to spring into a full Basque adventure. The choice is yours.
José Arana Kalea, 13, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain +34 613 04 40 29
Saturday & Sunday12–4:30 pm; 7 pm–12:30 am Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday 6 pm–12 am
@barmanojo
Located in a 17th century mansion at the entrance to the port of Pasajes, is the Casa Cámara restaurant. This is one of the oldest and most historic restaurants in the old part of Pasai Donibane, and has been run by the same family for more than 140 years. Here, they serve classic Basque seafood dishes and local mushrooms – perhaps unusal, but a delicacy we highly recommend you add to your selection of plates.
Located right on the water, Casa Cámara lives and breathes its history as a fish market. Live crayfish in baskets are hoisted up into the restaurant ceiling, lowered for selection, and then returned to your table within minutes – exquisitely fresh. And sometimes, the whole venue is thrown into shadow for minutes at a time, as gigantic ocean liners swing into the bay and make their ponderous journey to deliver their cargo. It’s all part of the experience.
Only 5 kilometres from San Sebastián, you can get most of the way by taxi or bus, and then take a short walk and pay €1.5 in cash at the Pasai San Pedro pier to take a small green boat to the other side of the bay.
This is a beautiful experience no matter which way you go about it, but a heads up – a little Spanish or Basque will go a long way!
Donibane Kalea, 79, 20110 Pasai Donibane, Gipuzkoa, Spain +34 943 52 36 99
Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday1:30 pm—3 pm
Friday & Saturday 1:30 pm—3 pm; 8:30 pm—10 pm
https://www.casacamara.com/ | @casacamara
Louis used to work at Gerald’s, and during the long breaks in the afternoon, this is where he would go.
The pintxos – and everything else on the menu for that matter – are delicious; and the drinks are generous. But the best thing Bar Donibane can give you is an intimate look at life in San Sebastián. Locals are often dipping in and out throughout the day, sometimes two-vermouths deep from 9 am, before joining friends and family at De Cataluña Plaza on the other side of the street – the Plaza has an adjacent playground, within eyeshot if you’re on the terrace.
Bar Donibane is a hub of vitality where you can put down roots and immerse yourself in another perspective. Give yourself a week as a fly on the wall, and you’ll be living and breathing the Basque life before you know it.
Zabalete Kalea, 27, 20002 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain +34 943 27 09 85
Wednesday through Monday 10 am—11 pm
@bardonibane
Arenales is a small bar with lots of charm and personality, and an excellent location. Situated in the classic quarter opposite the old town, the bar is equidistant from both the La Concha and Zurriola beaches, and only a short walk from the Zona Romántica, which is famous for its Belle Epoque architecture and shopping.
Run by Cynthia and Santi, these are two young Donostiarras who are putting their own spin on local produce to bring a new vibrancy to the best of what’s offered in the Basque Country.
If you’re travelling with friends, go together and make your way through the whole menu. With an ample wine list devoted to local, natural styles, you’ll find something for everyone that will carry you through from one delicious plate to the next.
Boulevard Zumardia, 11, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain +34 943 43 59 53
Monday through Thursday 12:30 pm–12 am
Friday & Saturday12:30 pm–12:30 am
Kitchen 1–3:30 pm; 7:30–10:30 pm
@arenales_bar
